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As we approach the end of July with the Ruby birthstone, IGR London are sharing some of our favorite ruby creations that show off this burgundy kissed gemstone at its best! Each piece selected is one of a kind work of art in its own right – smashing world records, at the frontier of innovative design and revolutionary gem setting techniques.


The gleaming Ruby should adorn,

All those who in July are born,
For thus they'll be exempt and free,
From lover's doubts and anxiety.


We begin with the sunrise ruby called after its namesake, being the most expensive ruby sold at auction for a record breaking $30.3m at Sotheby’s Geneva in May 2015.  The natural untreated 25.59 carat Burmese ruby has the sought after 'pigeon's blood' hue, is magnificently crafted by the Cartier jewellers in a ring, set with two heptagonal shaped diamonds on the shoulders, making the total carat weight almost 5.20 cratas.



Cartier crafted sunrise Ruby







The Sunrise Ruby was truly one of a kind piece, holding the global record as the most expensive gemstone sold. But little did we know that Graff was about to drop the scarlet bomb that will crush the global record and shake everyone's world. The lucky owner was a Greek financier, Dmitri Mavrommatis, bought the ring for $8.6 million, breaking down the price to around $1 million per carat for the fiery jewel. The heavenly cushion shaped ruby originates from Burma with the highest colour grade of ‘pigeon blood red’  adorned with trillion cut diamonds on either side and the band of round brilliantly sparkling diamonds. The piece was so irresistibly beautiful that Graff acquired the ring back  eight years later in Sotheby's auction. 


The Graff Ruby



One of IGR’s all-time favorites is the artistic bow tie brooch by Cindy Chao from the black label - Ribbon Collection, presented at Biennale des Antiquaires last year. The masterpiece is set with the majestic 76.91 carats old cut diamond tied with 1814 vivid pink and red rubies of various sizes, weighing a stagering 110.54 carats. The mixed shapes and sizes of ruby create the illusion and folds of the bow.  Several pieces are suspended with a springs that sways from the slightest movement bringing the work of art to life glittering with spectacular fire!




Bow tie brooch by Cindy Chao from the black label - Ribbon Collection



The magnificent Cartier Reine Makéda ruby necklace from the Royal High jewellery collection, was presented at Biennale des Antiquaires in 2014 and was worn by Jane Fonda during the Cannes film festival in 2015.The extravagant necklace features the rich intense red 15.29 carat oval shaped Mozambican ruby, a 3.51 carat rounded rose cut diamond, a 5.10 carat rose cut pear shaped diamond, 1027 brillianteered diamonds and finally, 496 ruby cabochons and beads. The masterpiece holds the secret, as the necklase can be separated into a ruby choker and diamond necklace to fit around the body’s contours. 





Cartier Reine Makéda ruby necklace from the Royal High jewellery collection



Boghossian revealed the Les Merveilles reversible ruby and diamond necklace last year at Biennale in Paris. The renowned Swiss jewellery house is known for developing revolutionary techniques and innovative craftsmanship introduced Merveilles after four years in research and development. The radical new technique uses gemstones to hold each other in place. The setting is free from metal therefore light can flow uninterrupted into each gemstone and their brilliance, sparkle is multiplied. The design is transformational which permits the wearer to change the gemstones from all diamonds to rubies and diamonds by twisting the oval shaped Merveilles set ruby links. The centrepiece of the innovative necklace displays an stunning flawless 7.45 carat marquise diamond, 22 pear shaped diamonds totalling 22.66 carats and 22.94 carats of rubies adorned in white gold. Even though the spotlight is on the craftsmanship, in the style of the Merveilles setting the rubies take centre stage show off their bright red hues and scintillate fire in the pure light!

Boghossian's Les Merveilles reversible ruby and diamond necklace



Mae West, the American actress’ smile inspired Salvador Dali’s ruby lips, ‘poets of the ages, of all lands, write of ruby lips and teeth like pearls’ – Dali. The unconventional brooch in design and material was created in 1949 and is composed of mixed cut round and oval rubies make up and pearls set in yellow gold. The contrast of the translucent firey crimson rubies, bright yellow gold and lustrous white pearls makes a bold statement!


Salvador Dali’s ruby lips



Wallace Chan presented the magical ‘Ruby Castle’ ring at this year’s TEFAF Maastricht in a darkened booth, the ring is set in titanium with a 17.58 carat hexagonal Burmese ruby, enclosed by pink sapphires that makeup the band.  This fairy tale ring has the ultimate wow factor from the design, selection of gemstones and the revolutionary construction.  The ring combines geometric shapes to create a dream like castle – the ruby and the band of plush pink sapphires represent a mysterious mountainous landscape.

The combination of the vivid red ruby and the lively pinks of the sapphires work in harmony to highlight the vivaciousness of the ruby giving it limelight as well as evoking a sense of warmth into these geometric shapes and sharp angles. Tension setting is used to hold the precious center stone allowing us to admire its shape and beauty from every angle. Moreover,  each gemstone was carefully chosen to fit together as the jigsaw puzzle, creating the illusion of the castle walls. Ruby Castle ring is an enchanting piece that exhibits Chan creative imagination, artistry and his meticulous nature.



Wallace Chan's magical ‘Ruby Castle’ ring



Here’s another treasure from the innovator, Boghossian, which I believe has the wow factor in terms of avante garde design and cutting edge setting - the opal and ruby kissing ring. By using the kissing technique where light reflects through the pairing of the gemstones - the unique piece combines a crimson 4.43 carat cushion shaped Siam ruby to sits upon the massive 27.24 carat opal. The selection of gemstone is ingenious, the rich colour and nature of the ruby works in harmony with the phenomenon of colour play from the opal to result in a colourful kaleidoscope effect.







DeLaneau’s Grace Rubies and Grace Stars watches are both the ultimate show stoppers in the jewellery and watch category! Both watches are part of the exclusive range of the epitome of uber ostentatious watches in the Grace collection launched in 2013. The Grace Rubies stars cascading diamonds and rubies: 214 juicy deep pink and vibrant red Burmese cabochons rubies totalling 222 carats, hugged by 419 shimmering diamonds and additional 218 icy diamonds in the dial. The intense hues of vibrant reds and vivacious pinks combined with the radiant texture of the cabochons is breath-taking! The Grace star watch takes the Grace rubies watch to another height – showcasing cabochon star rubies and sapphires, this is truly unique as they boast a captivating star pattern which is due to the phenomena of needle like inclusions. The treasure timepiece includes 118 star rubies and sapphires, 276 diamonds and on top of this the piece de resistance has an exquisite watch dial of a slice ruby known as the ruby heart. Both of the watches are truly the manifistation of the gemstones and craftsmanship, setting much higher standarts with every design.




DeLaneau’s Grace Rubies and Grace Stars watches






We have selected the Stellar Dune Earring by Tomasz Donocik as it’s a modern, geometric design combining Mozambican rubies alongside with colourless diamonds, white agate, pink opal and hematite set in rose gold. The design is bold, edgy and the diverse colours and variation of the transparency of the rubies and opaque qualities of the other gemstones results in a striking contrast. The vibrancy and fire of the electrifying red rubies are bursting beside the pink opal and white agate establishing a sense of playfulness and femininity.



Stellar Dune Earring by Tomasz Donocik


Finishing up our list of mesmerising ruby jewellery is the outstanding piece from "The King of Burmese Ruby" - Faidee.

The company’s latest unveiling on March 25 may have topped everything it has ever created.

“The Grand Phoenix” is a regal necklace featuring 24 exceptional pigeon's blood unheated Burmese ruby, weighing 59.83 carats in total.  The fiery scarlet jewels are wrapped with 100.21 carats of top colour, internally flawless fancy shaped diamonds. This ruby and diamond combination in a flower motif is a signature of Faidee’s creations. The necklace is valued at $35 million, said Ravi Lunia, Faidee director.




With so many outstanding gemstones available, some of which come through our lab, and so many talented designers you know its not an easy task to put together a list of our favourite pieces. 
We hope you love all or some of these.



IGR London